An exquisite piece of floral embroidery made for Queen Elizabeth II’s famous coronation gown in 1953 could sell for thousands of pounds at auction.
The 70-year-old framed sample – ‘part of an historic masterpiece’ – has been uncovered in Derbyshire together with elegant watercolour clothing designs created before 1952 for the then Princess Elizabeth and the Queen (Queen Mother) by Norman Hartnell.
Hartnell (1901-1979), a leading British fashion designer best known for his work for the royal family, masterminded Queen Elizabeth’s coronation gown, one of the most important dresses of all time. The sample, made during the gown’s design process, will be offered in Hansons Auctioneers’ Monarchs and Majesty Auction on May 16, estimate £1,500-£2,000.
The elaborate embroidery was inspired by collaboration between Queen Elizabeth and Hartnell. It depicts the emblems of the four home nations and the Commonwealth, in silver and gold thread, diamante, silver bullion and mother-of-pearl. It comes with handwritten notes titled ‘Coronation dress emblems’ detailing colours and materials for each emblem.
Hansons’ textiles consultant Notty Hornblower, owner of Derbyshire’s Hope House Costume Museum, said: “This embroidery is exquisite and a stunning auction find. It was made during months of painstaking work to make a dress which became an historic masterpiece. It demonstrates the remarkable care and attention to detail that went into creating a gown worthy of the Queen for the first televised coronation, a milestone for the monarchy.
“As we look forward to King Charles’ coronation on May 6, it exemplifies the standard of royal pageantry our nation has come to know and love.”
Queen Elizabeth II was 25 when she was crowned at London’s Westminster Abbey on June 2, 1953. It was the start of a lifetime of loyal service. When the nation lost her at the age of 96 in September 2022 she had reigned for 70 years and 214 days, the longest period of any female monarch in history.
Notty said: “We will never forget her, or how beautiful she looked at her coronation. Hartnell gained the Royal Warrant as Dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth and made her wedding gown. She called upon his skills again to create her white satin coronation dress in similar form.
“It is thanks to Hartnell’s kindness that this sample has been saved for posterity. The seller’s late aunt worked as a PA for the designer for 43 years. Hartnell gave her the embroidery as they became dear friends over the decades.
“The seller, who is from the Derbyshire Dales, has displayed it on her wall for more than 20 years. She thinks it may be the largest surviving embroidery sample from the gown. She would like to see it go on public display, hence her decision to sell now.”
When the Queen invited Hartnell to design her coronation dress in late 1952 it sparked eight months of painstaking hard work as he grappled with research, design ideas and workmanship to make its intricate embroidery.
He produced around nine designs in total and, along the way, examples of decorative embroidery were made for the Queen to approve. She wanted her dress to honour the nation she served so emblems of Great Britain were created. However, the Commonwealth could not be forgotten either. Consequently, embroidery was made featuring flowers of the Commonwealth with the Tudor Rose at its centre.
Notty said: “The Queen’s desire to ensure her dress honoured all those she served demonstrated her devotion to duty. She liked her coronation dress so much she wore it six more times, one event being the Opening of Parliament in New Zealand and Australia in 1954. For any admirer of our late Queen, I can’t think of a more touching royal memento to cherish.”
Hartnell was Queen Elizabeth II’s dressmaker from the mid-1930s until his death in 1979. The sale includes seven watercolour/sketch clothing designs of outfits made for the then Princess Elizabeth between 1947-52 and the Queen Mother, pre-1952. A handwritten note signed by Norman Hartnell states, ‘Specially designed for H.R.H The Princess Elizabeth/Duchess of Edinburgh/The Queen. The sketches have an estimate of £200-£250.
The items will be offered in Hansons Auctioneers’ May 16 Monarchs and Majesty Auction. Entries invited until April 25. To find out more, email Isabel Murtough: [email protected]
Entries invited | Monarchs & Majesty Auction
Items of royal memorabilia are invited for the May 16 Monarchs & Majesty until April 28. To discuss a possible consignment, please email email Isabel Murtough: [email protected].
Isabel will host a Monarchs & Majesty valuation event at Hansons, Heage Lane, Etwall, Derbyshire on April 22, 10am-noon.
