By Helen Smith | Head of Jewellery
They may be scratched and scuffed but I never fail to get excited when clients bring along vintage watches for valuation.
Often rescued from bedside drawers, people fear they are too tatty to put up for auction. That could not be further from the truth. As well as being highly desirable, vintage watch collectors do not expect timepieces made in the 1950s, 60s or 70s to be perfect. How could they be unless they never left their box?
Scuffs are a badge of honour, a proof of age and history and a celebration of life’s rich tapestry. They underline the provenance of antiques and, when it comes to watches, enhance their value and desirability.
After all, every object has a story. Imagine owning a watch once strapped to the wrist of a fighter pilot in World War Two. You can hardly expect it to be pristine.
Salerooms are seeing demand grow for watches with a story to tell – their time has come. To give you an example, an extremely scarce watch made for the German Air Force in World War Two sparked an auction battle at Hansons. Despite not even having a strap, the circa 1940 German Luftwaffe B-Uhr (Beobachtungsuhr) Observers watch manufactured by A Lange and Sohne, soared to £3,000 (below).
The vintage watch market is an increasingly desirable and buoyant sector and now, it seems, watch collectors, rather than buying pristine new timepieces, are opting for used watches. The scuffs, marks, foxing and patina of pre-loved items add to the appeal. They bring character and originality to their look.
When seeing any antique or vintage piece we often ask, ‘where has it been, what has it seen through its life and who wore it?’ These watches have stood the test of time and tell a story which adds to the romance and enjoyment of wearing it.
Several factors come into play when it comes to understanding why designer and vintage watches are major auction stars in a digital age. One obvious reason is that they’re elegant, useful and demonstrate workmanship. Glancing at the time on your mobile phone can hardly compare to having a stylish watch on your wrist.
Consequently, there is strong demand for high-end vintage time pieces such as Rolex and Omega. This demand is exacerbated by the manufacturers themselves. Due to long waiting lists new watch collectors face if they desire a particular branded timepiece, some turn to the pre-loved market for an alternative.
Then there is the impact of popular culture, primarily period films and TV shows. Peaky Blinders helping to increase sales of men’s pocket watches. Meanwhile, 1950s-inspired TV series Mad Men and the film Don’t Worry Darling showcased mid-20th century sleek styling and modern sophistication. Collectors on watch forums started asking, ‘What watch is Harry Styles wearing in the film?’
Watches from the 1960s are also coveted, sprinkled with film-star allure. People see Paul Newman wearing Rolex Daytona, Steve McQueen donning a Heuer Monaco 1133 or notice James Bond’s wrist is adorned with a Rolex Explorer or Submariner.
Latterly Bond actor Daniel Craig has been wearing a Seamaster Diver 300M Co-Axial and a Planet Ocean 600M Co-Axial. These are all highly collectable and sought after.
In addition, once they discover vintage eras, some collectors get hooked on the style of particular decades, such as the 1950s and 60s. And in a world keen to be sustainable and eco-friendly, buying antique or vintage is a perfect way to air your green credentials.
If you have a vintage watch gathering dust at home, these results from Hansons’ May sales may inspire you to get it valued. Lot 261, a 1960s gentleman’s steel-cased Tudor Oyster Royal wristwatch plus a 196s/70s gold-plated Roamer ‘Limelight’ automatic wristwatch on leather strap made £290, double their £100-£150 guide.
Meanwhile, a gent’s vintage 9ct gold cased Tudor watch face, above, with a round signed silvered dial, applied Arabic markers and subsidiary dial achieved £220, with no strap. Lot 263, a 1950s gents’ vintage 9ct gold Smith Imperial wristwatch with signed champagne dial ticked to £150 from a £80-£120 estimate.
Bidders also liked lot 266, a 9ct gold Omega De Ville vintage wristwatch, with a signed silvered dial, applied baton markers, brown leather strap. It made £280.
Another watch to more than double its estimate was lot 267, an Omega gent’s vintage steel cased Seamaster 600 wristwatch with later leather strap. It made £230 from an estimate of £100-£150.
Watches invited for auction
Watches, jewellery and silver are invited for Hansons Auctioneers’ June 27 Fine Art Auction and monthly sales. For advice or a free valuation, please email Head of Jewellery Helen Smith: [email protected] or call 01283 733988.
