By Victoria Ewart, Vintage Fashion & Textiles Consultant
In 1982 following the success of the two previous catwalk shows and their merchandising Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood opened a new shop, Nostalgia of Mud which coincided with their new collection known by the same name or alternatively ‘The Buffalo Gals/Girls’
Malcom McLaren stated that the idea behind it was, ‘to show in clothes and music that, in the post-industrial age, the roots of our culture lie in primitive societies’. He saw the collection as pivotal and political. (Yvonne Gold anothermag.com)
Westwood relied less and less on McLaren’s direct input for this collection it showed her interest in historical costume in this instance traditional South and North American cultures. The collection referenced traditional clothing of the Americas, particularly the Andes with loose, pleated dirndl skirts (Polleras) and drop-shouldered sheepskin jackets along with felt hats (Cholas)
In an age of structured tailoring with an emphasis on huge shoulders and loud colours, Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren offered an alternative – soft, draping tailoring in equally soft earthy tones that celebrated its design and its creation with exposed seams, unhemmed hems and seams along with distressed fabrics.
What was initially met with shock by many quickly became assimilated into both international couture and mainstream fashion and continues to influence 40 years on.
Examples of these important designs can be found in major museums throughout the world and a rare example will be offered at Hansons’ Staffordshire saleroom, Bishton Hall, in the September 30 Vintage, Antique, Designer Fashion and Textiles sale, estimate £800-£1,200.
