Vintage designer wares are big business in the auction world as fashionistas fall in love with saleroom style.
You can hardly blame them. It’s the perfect place to source high-end clothing, handbags and accessories for a snip and build on a caring ethos to recycle and avoid waste.
Consequently, items from makes like Gucci, Chanel, Prada, Hermes, Jimmy Choo, Louis Vuitton or Burberry are highly desirable and bidding is strong. This was demonstrated yet again in January’s Derbyshire Antiques & Collectors Auction – thanks to Ossie Clark.
Raymond ‘Ossie’ Clark (1942-1996) was an English fashion designer and major figure in London’s Swinging Sixties scene. He’s been compared to 1960s fashion great Biba and influenced Yves Saint Laurent. Today’s designers bow to his genius, models such as Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell wear his clothes and he’s renowned for his vintage classics.
Consequently, when two Ossie Clark 1970s dresses went under the hammer at Etwall Auction Centre a stylish ending was guaranteed. Lot 2342, above, a 1970s moss crepe, floral empire line dress featuring a full gathering from its V-shaped neckline, covered buttons and long sleeves with elasticated cuff, designed by Clark’s wife Celia Birtwell, was contested to £380.
Bury-born Birtwell was renowned for her romantic and feminine designs, influenced by Picasso and Matisse and the classical world. Her work with Clark was a marriage of style which helped define the era. The collaboration began in 1966 and it was the Clarks who began the modern catwalk show.
Birtwell described her husband as ‘a genius, better than Yves Saint Laurent. His cut – although he lifted it from the 1930s, he had his own take on it – even plump women felt pretty in. He didn’t dress just the slimmest, which is always easier’.
She designed textiles for Clark who used his skill in cutting and understanding of form, together with her knowledge of fabrics and textures, to produce haute couture. His admiration for 1930s design was demonstrated in lot 2343, above, an early 1970s, full length, cut on the bias, cream moss crepe ‘Come Fly With Me’ backless dress with cut-out diamond detail to the front and satin-covered buttons. It brimmed with 1930s style and soared to £420.
Together, those two Clark dresses raised around £1,000 in total – a grand result for a couple of forgotten classics. And they could increase in value thanks to the part they have played in British fashion history.
Many more vintage designer items will inevitably be tucked away across Derbyshire and the country as a whole. They are often left languishing in wardrobes for decades, or discarded. It’s something I have long been aware of, hence why vintage clothing and textiles have play an important role in Hansons’ monthly sales.
The woman I rely on to lead the charge on the fashion front is Derbyshire clothing expert Notty Hornblower. Notty owns Hope House Costume Museum in Alstonefield, near Ashbourne, and I’m proud to say she is a consultant valuer for Hansons. She offers monthly free valuation events, by appointment, at Etwall Auction Centre and will be with us on February 18, 10am-4pm.
Notty is an expert on the history of fashion. She understands how it impacts our lives and reflects changes in society. She also knows the value of items that may be languishing in your wardrobe including all types of period and vintage clothing, designer bags and accessories, and antique textiles.
Luckily, more and more people are beginning to value quality and design of old but that’s just one reason why this auction sector is growing in momentum. Another is that fashion is cyclical and often returns for a second innings. Trends come back into vogue, plus quality is timeless when it comes to makes like Gucci or Chanel.
Consequently, Hansons witnesses impressive results in the saleroom. For example, a vintage Chanel quilted lambskin navy handbag, with certificate of authentication, made £1,300 and a Christian Dior Lady Dior handbag in black lambskin reached £1,250.
An iconic Balenciaga 1930s evening dress and bolero in black silk velvet made £540 and two boxes of high-quality early 20th century table coverings together with a bundle of tasselled silk cord curtain tie backs reached £1,000.
In addition, a notable auction star in 2021 was a Qing dynasty full length court robe, probably Qianlong period, which made £10,000. It came from a collection accumulated by a woman who became passionate about Oriental design when she was living in Hong Kong decades ago. Maybe it’s time to start that wardrobe spring clean?
Hansons is inviting entries for its March 31 Fine Art, Handbags and Luxury Goods Auction. To book a free valuation, available six days a week, or an appointment with Notty Hornblower, at Hansons, Heage Lane, Etwall, Derbyshire, email [email protected] or call 01283 733988. Notty will be available on January 21, February 18 and March 18, 10am-4pm. For further dates, click here
